Goodyear'Goodyear RV tires are some of the best models available. The G670 RV tire is specially designed for class ‘A’ motor homes that can be fitted in any position,' according to Inside Your RV website. The tread casing has exceptional durability, lending itself to extended fuel efficiency that causes less rubber-to-road surface friction and drag. A system of circumferential grooves allows for superior wet traction. Extra sipes and tread notches enhance the traction capabilities, and the improved high-tech interior belt design aids for a smooth and comfortable ride, says Inside Your RV.MichelinInside Your RV says Michelin has ' carved a niche' in the best RV tires catergory. Michelin designed and manufactured them with superior handling and riding comfort in mind, says Inside Your RV. It notes Michelin added a reinforced steep bead for added sidewall protection against punctures and damage.
This allows for the casing to accept retreads. Special attention has been given to rib tread design that provides even tread wear. The tread pattern features lessens rolling resistance which provides better gas mileage.
BFGoodrichThe BF Goodrich model tire, most popular with the small RV crowd, has a dual compound tread for increased grip and long-lasting tread wear. The tread design has noise suppressing qualities and the feel of the steering wheel has a 'light' touch, denoting less tire-to-road resistance. A stabilized outside riding shoulder provides exceptional dry traction and control, while providing good wet and snow traction with full tread depth features. Two full-width steel belts make it sturdy for high speed and stable handling.
Sideways flex allows for good cornering characteristics. One consumer reports 94,000 miles driven on his 2003 Ford F150 and plenty of tread left on his P275/60/17 tires.DunlopThe Dunlop Radial Rover has been awarded the Severe Service Emblem which means that it qualifies for use in severe winter conditions. Any tire that bears this symbol performs much better than its competitors (tires marked with only an M+S rating) in slush, ice or deep snow conditions. Equipped with a four-rib tread design, the Dunlop Rover has noteworthy on-and off-road capability. Deep tread grooves channel water away, resisting planing and skidding.
The sidewall features have been stylishly enhanced with raised white lettering and a high serrated band.
The X-One XRV tire (445/50R22.5) is rated up to 120 psi, and each tire can support 10,200 pounds. This is a seriously strong tire designed to replace two rear dual tires and can support a rear axle weighing in at over 20,000 pounds.
Dear Jim & Terrre am I to understand the kids did get into RVing finally too bad you could not have interested them in a Breakaway,oh well such is life. Hope this message finds you healthy & happy, does not look like I will get away south at all this year, still no satisfaction from Florida Detriot Diesel ALLISION ON that tranny I did not need, I will be taking then to small claims next year when I AM in the area. Pokemon leaf green gba rom download. Paul Finley.
Location: fenelon falls ont. Member Since: Ignored post byposted 05:36 PM. Good to hear from you, Paul. With 3 kids, they needed the flexibility of a Class C. There are a few Barth Class Cs out there but they are pretty ancient. The Winnebago they bought has all steel sidewall and roof structural members with gel coat fiberglass.
In addition the roof is one piece fiberglass. It's a 2008 model with only 11000 miles, ready to go with no projects.Sorry to hear about your problems with Detroit Diesel. Keep after them.
A lot of these outfits just try to wear you down. Don't give up. Hope you are still enjoying your Breakaway.
The Michelin people said not to use the XPS because the sidewall was too stiff and would create a bad ride. He said to use the Michelin LTX instead. This is a 14,500 GVWR motor home with a 5000# front axle and a 10000# rear axle, roughly the same as a lot of 28' Regals and Breakaways. I've never heard of the sidewall being too stiff. In fact, as I recall, some of us using Michelin XRVs, complained about the sidewall being too flexible.
Of course that's on 19.5 ' tires rather than 16'. Would appreciate more thoughts.
RV Tires: That's Where RubberMeets The Road!RV Tires are probably more exposed to the elements than any other part of our running gear. When you think about it, everything on our Class C Motorhome comes in contact with sun, air, and water.It Does Not Matter What We Are Driving, Or Pulling; All Recreational Tires Will Need to have regular tire inspections if you want to be safe on the road.Motorhome tires, travel trailer tires, or any of the RV trailer tires in general not only have to deal the deteriorating effects of these three elements, they also are making contact with a hard road surface, and anything laying on it.
Best Tires For A Class C Motorhome Dealers Near Me
Yet, how much do we think about what is good for our various travel trailer tires, and what can we do to prolong their useful life? Do we understand the science behind our modern pneumatic tires?If we can gain a better understanding of how our RV tires are made, will this information allow us to get a longer service life out of them? I believe that it would. And I will tell you why I believe the way I do.Have you ever wondered why it is that we have tocover the RV tires or they will rot?Yet, we can leave our cars out in the sun every day, and they appear not to suffer that same type of drying and cracking that the average RV tire develops?The answer to the above questions has to do with two things.1. A few key elements that go into a tire.
Our modern RV tires contain various emollients and waxes (that protect their sidewalls against the effects of ozone contamination) and carbon black (that offers protection against UV damage). The manufacturers of our modern RV tires came to understand as early as 1910, when the B. Goodrich Company started adding carbon black to the rubber compound, that there was a need to protect the rubber tire from UV (ultra violet light). This carbon black barrier must be reapplied periodically or our RV tires become susceptible to UV damage.2.
The working conditions that the tire was designed to operate in. Our RV tires were designed to roll down the road. If they are used in this manner and kept clean, sidewall deterioration becomes less of a concern.
This motion of rolling down the road allows the wax and emollients to work its way up to the surface of the tire and offers protection against ozone contamination.We Will Need To Stop UV and Ozone DamageIt seems there are three things that will help prevent UV and ozone damage.1. Keep the motorhome tires clean. Like just about everything else we have, if you keep them clean, they will last longer. This is something that is easily overlooked, but heavy buildups of mud, sand, or dirt act as an abrasive that prevents the waxing process designed to combat ozone destruction.
Using a mild soap and water with a soft brush on a regular basis will remove a fair amount of ozone buildup along with the dirt and grime.2. Flexing, or using the tire. This action enhances waxing. Waxing occurs when we use our RV's. This tire rotation process causes an expansion and contraction motion that allows a slow wax distribution. This distribution will, in turn, combat ozone oxidation that, if left unchecked, will result in the drying and cracking of the sidewall on your motorhome tires.3. Apply a carbon black component to your tires.
After you have your RV tires clean, you will want to apply a carbon black product like 303 Aerospace Protectant. As far as I know, this is the only product that will work as advertised in combating UV. Another thing to consider is the fact that any tire dressing that contains petroleum products, alcohol, and/or silicone materials may further damage the tire due to a possible chemical reaction with the antioxidant material in the tire.These two additives, carbon black and wax, will protect an RV tire from premature drying and cracking. However, as I stated above, when a tire is not used, this wax additive will lose its effectiveness.It works like this. According to Doug Jones, Michelin Tire Product Engineer, 'Ozone is the principal enemy of uncovered RV tires. One of the ways tire manufacturers combat ozone is by blending ozone resistant rubber compounds during the making of the tire. These special waxes form a protective barrier against the ozone, but in order to keep up the battle, the waxes must be constantly brought to the surface of the tire'.The flexing of a travel trailer tire will naturally bring wax to the surface on a constant basis.
This in done during normal use.RV tires will rot and crack because they sit stationary for long periods of time, and this inaction results in less wax working its way to the surface. Automobile tires have a tendency not to rot because they are more often in constant use.This rotting and cracking phenomenon is an important area of consideration because most of us will never wear out our RV tires.Now we know that we should exercise our RV tires, keep them covered and clean, and put on them.Unless we drive them with low pressure or with alignment issues, they will usually have good tread on them when they are replaced.For the record, Michelin recommends that:. If the cracks are less than 1/32' deep, the tire is O.K. To run. Between 1/32' and 2/32', the tire is suspect and should be examined by your Michelin tire dealer. If the cracks are over 2/32', the tire should be replaced immediately.What Do These Unusual Wear Patterns On MyMotorhome Tires Mean?Well, by watching how your RV tires wear, and if you learn what the different wear patterns are, you can use this information to learn how other parts of your rig's health is doing.
Motorhome Tires 19.5 Sale
Such as, front end alignment and shock absorber issues.You should inspect your RV tires often. Once a week isn't too often if the tire is in use. You are doing this inspection because you want to detect any early warning signs of mechanical trouble.Trouble undetected can shorten your RV tire's life. And that, my friend, is just throwing money away.
Trouble detected can also give you clues to other areas of your RV that may need attention.There are three steps to a complete tire inspection. Feel the tread by hand to detect a wear pattern such as feathering. Examine all six or more of your RV tires. Check your tread depth with an analog or digital tread gauge.Here are some descriptions that will help you understand how tire wear relates to suspension issues.1. Wear Indicator. All tires made since 1968 have built-in tread wear indicator bars.
When tire use degrades the tread depth to 1/16' (1.5mm), smooth 1/2' (13mm) bands seem to rise toward the surface. This indicates that these tires should be replaced. Many states have laws making this replacement mandatory.2. Over inflation. When air pressure in a tire is consistently too high, you will see a condition that shows excessive tread wear on the center treads.
A rarer circumstance that can cause this condition is when someone puts seriously over-sized tires on too small of a rim. These situations result in the center area of the tread being pushed out and wearing prematurely.3. Under inflation. If your motor home tires are under inflated, the outside treads will wear prematurely due to unequal pressure across the tread width. In essence, when there is not enough air to push the center of the tire to its proper position, the tire is no longer riding on an air bubble. It is, by default, resting on the sidewalls causing outside tread wear. If air pressure is consistently checked and found to be correct, this condition could indicate a bent steering component, which causes an incorrect toe-in or toe-out position resulting in abnormal handling characteristics when turning.
This could also show the need for a wheel alignment.4. Feathered Wear. When you experience a situation where the tread rib becomes slightly rounded on one edge, and a there is a sharp edge on the opposite side of the tread, you have what is referred to as feathering.
This is usually caused by a tow-in setting that can be corrected with a proper adjustment. On occasion when the toe-in is set correctly, you may still experience this feathering condition. This would indicate that you have a deteriorated bushing in the front suspension. This causes a shifting wheel alignment when your Class C Motorhome is moving down the road. Camber Wear. You can always tell that you are due for a wheel alignment when either the outer or inner rib (tread) wears faster than the rest of the tire.
This is referred to as being out of camber, or it is sometimes referred to as a one side wear. This is due to excessive camber in your front suspension. It will cause the wheel (tire) to either lean to the inside or outside.
This will, of course, put an unequal load on one side of your tire.Although alignment issues would be your first suspicion, there could be a more complicated cause like:. weak springs. worn out control bushings.
worn ball joints. shock absorber. bushings, etc. alignment problems. If it is an alignment problem, it will require adjustments to be made.
The key to proper alignment is to make sure you have your rig fully loaded the way you would normally drive the thing.6. Spotty/Chopped Wear. This is also called cupping. Worn suspension parts that connect to the wheel are usually causing this pattern of cupping. These are scalloped, or dips, that appear universally around the edge of a tire. This can happen on either edge.Also, on occasion, you can have bent suspension components creating this type of cupping. The solution to this problem would be replacement of any faulty part(s).Wheel balance issues show a little different pattern.
It will create a larger bald spot between the outside and center of the tread.If tire wear issues are discovered quickly, the tire can sometimes be saved if it is rotated to a different location on your rig. Dual Kissing. When two RV tires in a dual configuration touch, this is referred to as dual kissing. Under normal circumstances duals will not kiss and you would not have a problem. However, it can easily happen when one or more of the dual RV tires are low in air pressure.Simply put, if you do not have enough air in the things, they will squat down and their sidewalls will spread.If they spread enough and touch, you have heating issues that will eventually break down the sidewall and cause a blow-out. This duel kissing condition can them develop into a fatigue rupture.8. Fatigue RuptureFatigue ruptures may be caused by more than one factor:.
improper mounting. incorrect dual spacing. under inflation.
casing growth. In this last case, the fabric casing cords of the tire actually stretch and expand, causing the tire to touch or kiss under load at the contact patch. Fatigue ruptures can occurThis condition is sometimes called a zipper rip.9. Zipper Rip. A zipper rip condition occurs when you stress your sidewall beyond their design parameters through an overloaded or under inflated condition, you will create an effect that breaks down the steel casing cords. This whole thing acts like a chain reaction.
First one cord breaks which adds additional stress to the adjacent cords and so on until a rupture occurs in the sidewall. Another cause of a zipper rip is improper tire blocking (improperly leveling of your rig).Proper Leveling TechniquesThis is something that we are all going to have to do on occasion, and some of us will need to do it every time we go out! It just depends. Some places are level, and some are not.If you have hydraulic levelers, life is easy.
For the rest of us, we have to use leveling blocks of some sort.The challenge is to be able to put all of your tire on these blocks. If you do not, you are running the risk of tire damage.The thing to avoid is having your tires hang over the edge of the blocking material. You want to use proper blocks that will support your RV tires evenly across the tread width.You do not want to stick a 2X4 under each tire and call it quits. This will break down your steel belts and open up the possibility for blow-out.Tire RotationIn a perfect world, you would have no need to rotate your tires if you constantly kept the perfect air pressure and alignment.But, as we have noticed, this is not a perfect world. So we must rotate tires to get their best wear.Because we do have alignment concerns, under/over inflation issues, and free rolling wear problems, it is best if we follow our manufacturer's rotation policy.It is also a good idea to include your spare tire in this rotation process.
Remember, tires like exercise.Radial tires should be rotated front to back due to issues with the steel belts. It seems that they like to roll in only one direction. If you reverse them, these steel belts start to break down.Buying New TiresEssentially, if you are satisfied with the tires you have, then it is a simple matter to just replace them.However, not all tires are equal, and there may be something out there that would suit your needs better.You want to pay attention to whether or not you should buy a 60,000 mile tire if your last set rotted out after 5 years and 35,000 miles. This is almost a totally subjective decision.
At any rate, if you replace your tires, pay attention to sizing.If you go with a bigger or smaller tire, you may be asking for trouble.Some things to look at are load rating and gross over sizing. You should know how much your rig actually weighs so you can make sure that any new tire replacement is rated for the load you are carrying.
A good deal on a tire may not be so, if it is underrated for your needs. This sets up a scenario for all types of problems. Over sizing a tire becomes a problem when your new big tire surpasses the rim size.
This means that your rim and tire are no longer in sync. This will give you odd wear patterns and a possible dual kissing issue.Here is a question for you.
How much tread should wear off of your tire before it is time to replace it?Generally, if your tread gets down to 2/32 of an inch, it's time to replace them.However, if wet roads and rain enter the equation, then your tread wear should not go below 4/32 of an inch.If you try to use your treads down to 2/32 of an inch, you will find yourself hydroplaning. It is simple physics.
Water does not compress very well, and it has to be channeled away from the bottom of your tire.With a tread depth of 2/32' water cannot escape fast enough to do you any good.It gets worse. What if you are driving in snow? You will need 6/32 of an inch to achieve a 'bite'.Back to physics again. You need deeper tread depth because you want the snow to compress into your treads, and then release it as the tire rotates.Actually, if you are going to be in snow for a long duration, you should use snow tires. But, we have Class C Motorhomes, and that allows us to go where snow doesn't blow.
If you live in Alaska or Canada. You could tell me about snow driving. I'm from California!To Be Safe On The Road, You MustUnderstand Your Various GVWRsOne last question. How do you know just how much weight you can put on your RV trailer tires specifically?When youyou will notice that it refers to maximum weight.If we are not running around with maximum weight on our vehicles, we should be able to let some air out of our tires!The question is, how much. And why would you want to?
Welcome to RV UNIVERSITY Saturday, June 29 2019 @ 10:54 pm UTCRV Tires 101 by: Mark J. PolkToday we're going to discuss one of the most important components of your RV and probably the most neglected, your RV tires. We all tend to take tires for granted. You know what I mean, when was the last time you checked the inflation pressure in your tires? Especially the inner duals if you have a motor home. Better yet, when was the last time you had your RV weighed? Overweight RVs and under inflated tires are both unsafe, send operating and repair costs sky high and can cause unexpected downtime.
Much of the reason for neglecting our tires is because we don't really understand what is required to properly maintain them.Did you know that nearly a quarter of the RVs weighed by the Recreation Vehicle Safety Education Foundation had loads that exceeded the capacity of the tires on the RVs? On average, these RVs were overloaded by over 900 pounds based on manufacturer specifications.
In a separate survey conducted by Bridgestone / Firestone, 4 out of 5 RVs had at least one under inflated tire, a third of which were dangerously under inflated and at risk of failure. An under inflated tire can't carry the load of a properly inflated tire and the extra weight causes greater heat build up in the tire, which can lead to tire failure. 40% of all rear tires were overloaded. Improper weight distribution resulted in 28% of all motor homes being out of balance by 400 pounds or more from one axle end to the other.With multiple slide out rooms, amenities like washers and dryers, holding tank capacities and the ample amount of storage space available on today's RVs it's easy to see why so many RVs are overloaded. We have a tendency to fill every nook and cranny of available space. Another problem is out of balance loads. Properly distributing the load can be difficult to determine when you're loading the RV.
You can within an axle or tire's load capacity on one end of an axle, and over capacity on the other axle end. The bottom line is overloaded RVs and under inflated tires are extremely dangerous.
Our goal today is to keep you from becoming a statistic in relationship to overloaded RVs and under inflated tires. What do you say we get started.The best place to start is with weight ratings. Weight ratings are established by the manufacturer and are based on the weakest link in the chain.
The suspension system, tires, wheels, brakes, axles, and the RV itself all have weight ratings. When you exceed a weight rating you are overloading one or more components on the RV and risk wearing the component out prematurely or complete failure of the component.
In many cases the tires on your RV are the weakest link.If you've been RVing for a while I'm sure you heard stories about tire failures and blowouts. I can't begin to tell you how many times I've heard people say that the tires on their RV were defective, or my tires only had 12,000 miles on them when I had a blowout.
In the majority of cases the truth of the matter is that tire maintenance has been neglected or the RV was overloaded. The only thing between your RV and the road surface is your tires and the air that is in them. This is the weakest link.A federal data plate is required by law on all vehicles.
It lists the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating and the Gross axle weight rating for the vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating or GVWR is one of the most crucial safety factors of your RV. The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is the maximum allowable weight of the vehicle when fully loaded for travel including, all passengers, all cargo, fluids, and aftermarket accessories. You must not exceed the total GVWR for your vehicle. The Gross Axle Weight Ratings or GAWR is the maximum weight that should ever be placed on a given axle. The GAWR divided by two is the maximum axle rating for each end of the axle. You must not exceed this weight on either end of the axle, even if the total doesn't exceed the GAWR.In addition to the federal data plate all members of the Recreation Vehicle Industry association RVIA are required to have an additional label on the vehicles they manufacture.
This label lists additional information not available on the federal data plate and supersedes the federal data plate. There are two versions of the RVIA label depending on whether the vehicle was manufactured from September 1996 through August 2000, or after September 1, 2000. There are also separate versions for motor homes and for trailers, including 5 th wheel trailers. Some of the weight terms on this label that we are concerned with are:Unloaded Vehicle Weight or Dry Weight (UVW): The actual weight of the trailer or truck as built at the factory. The UVW does not include passengers, cargo, fresh water, LP gas, or after market accessories.Cargo Carrying Capacity (CCC): is the maximum permissible weight of personal belongings that can be added. CCC is equal or less than GVWR minus UVW, full fresh water weight, full LP gas weight, tongue weight of any towed vehicle and after market accessories.Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR): The maximum permissible weight of the tow vehicle and trailer combined when both are fully loaded for travel. GCWR also applies to a motor home towing a vehicle or trailer behind it.
GCWR minus GVWR represents the allowable weight for the towed vehicle.Note: The hitch receiver mounted on the towing vehicle must be rated for this amount of weight. If it is rated for less that is the maximum amount you can tow.Hitch Weight or Tongue Weight (TW): is the amount of weight pressing down on the vehicle's hitch or 5 th wheel connection when the trailer is fully loaded for travel.The only way to know if you are exceeding any of these weight ratings is to take your RV to the scales and have it weighed. The first step is to find scales where you can weigh your RV. This shouldn't be a problem.
You can look in the Yellow Pages under moving and storage companies, farm suppliers, gravel pits and commercial truck stops. There are several different kinds of scales. What's important is to find scales where you can weigh individual wheel positions in addition to the overall weight, and the axle weights. Remember we said earlier it's quite possible to weigh an axle and be with in the Gross Axle Weight Rating, but you can exceed the tire rating on one axle end or the other. Call the number where the scales are located and ask them if it is possible to weigh your RV in these configurations.The next step is to weigh everything! The day you head to the scales have the RV fully loaded for travel. If you tow a vehicle or trailer behind the motor home take the loaded vehicle with you.
If you are weighing a travel trailer or 5 th wheel, have the trailer and the tow vehicle loaded as if you were leaving on a camping trip. Be sure to include all passengers, cargo, food, clothing, fuel, water, and propane. Wate, fuel and propane alone can exceed 750 pounds.The actual process of weighing your RV is not that difficult. It may take a little time at the scales, but it is well worth it knowing that you're traveling safely within all of the manufacturer's weight ratings. You can download a free copy of a detailed guide, with worksheets to take with you onBefore you go to the scales identify the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for each axle, and the information about the correct tire and rim sizes and recommended cold tire inflation pressures for all vehicles and / or trailers you are going to weigh. Get this information from the Federal Data plate and RVIA Data plates we discussed earlier. Take this guide on how to weigh your travel trailer or RV with you and simply follow the steps in the charts that pertain to your configuration and fill in the blanks.If any overload condition exists it must be resolved immediately.
In some cases it might be possible to redistribute the weight and then weigh it again. If the overload condition still exists you'll need to remove some weight from the RV.Just like the axles your tires and wheels have load ratings too.
The maximum ratings are molded into the side of the tires. Keep in mind these are maximum ratings. The sidewall of the tire shows the maximum load and the minimum inflation pressure for that load. Never set the inflation pressures below the recommendations you find on the vehicle manufacturers placard and do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure ratings found on the tires sidewall.The actual permissible load for a tire depends on the tire size and load range. The maximum load amount is molded into the side wall of the tire.
You could increase your load capacity by changing to a higher load rated tire of the same size at a higher pressure, but keep in mind you still must not exceed the gross axle weight rating of the vehicle and you can't exceed the maximum tire inflation for the wheels. It's also possible in some cases to increase tire load capacity by increasing the inflation pressure in your tires, but you cannot exceed the maximum pressure specified for that tire. Consult your tire dealer for load and inflation tables.It's also important that you use the same inflation pressure on both ends of each axle. If you weigh the RV and axle end loads differ enough that the tables specify different inflation pressures for each axle end, the axle is out of balance and you need to redistribute the load. If for some reason you cannot redistribute the load you must inflate the tires on both ends to the pressure required for the axle end with the heavier load.Never operate your vehicle with tires inflated to less pressure than required for the load. Never operate your vehicle with tires inflated to less pressure than specified on the vehicle placard, no matter what the load.
Never inflate your tires above the maximum pressure shown on their sidewallsThis would be a good time to discuss some of the leading causes of premature tire failure?. Overloading the tires.
Under inflated tires. Ozone and UV rays. Age of the tires. Rotating tiresThe tires on your RV are the most vulnerable component affected by overloading the RV. There are numerous reasons for this. First and foremost is when the tires are not inflated properly for the load. Failure to maintain correct tire pressure can result in fast tread wear, uneven wear, poor handling, and excessive heat build up, which can lead to tire failure.
Another problem is when you weigh your RV the total weight of the axles may be within the axles weight rating but it may be overloaded on one side of the axle or the other. This is a common problem with RVs and many times the cause is poor weight distribution and / or improper loading of the RV. When this happens the tire or tires on the end of the axle that is overloaded are subject to tire failure. When a tire fails many RVers contribute it to a defect in the tire, but that is rarely the reason. The only way to avoid this is to weigh each axle end separately to determine if a tire overload condition exists.
The maximum load on each axle end is half the GAWR for that axle. If an axle end has dual tires, the load on each tire is half the load on the axle end. Never exceed the maximum tire load rating that is molded into the tires sidewall (along with the inflation pressure for that load).Another leading cause of tire failure is under inflated tires. The load rating for a tire is only accurate if the tire is properly inflated. Under inflated tires cause extreme heat build up that leads to tire failure.
The appearance of the tire can look normal but the internal damage is not visible and the tire can fail at any time without warning. If you find any tire 20 percent or more below the correct inflation pressure have it removed, demounted and inspected. Driving on a tire that is 20 percent or more under inflated can cause serious, permanent damage to the tire that may not be visible.
Tires with internal damage from under inflation can fail catastrophically without warning.Tires can lose up to two pounds of air pressure per month. If you don't check your tires for three or four months they could be seriously under inflated. Ideally you should check tire inflation, and adjust it if required, everyday that you move or drive your RV. If you can't get into the habit of doing it on a daily basis you need to make it a point to check all tires weekly at a minimum when you're traveling. You always want to check the tires when they are cold, meaning that you don't drive or move the RV before checking inflation pressure.The only way to correctly measure the inflation pressure in your tires is with a quality inflation pressure gauge. Using your boot, a billie club or a hammer is not a quality pressure gauge, and don't ever depend on your eyes to check tire inflation.
There can be as much as 20 PSI difference between tires that look the same. You need to invest in an accurate inflation pressure gauge.
You should get one with a double, angled foot. This makes it much easier to check the outer tire of a dual set.Wipe off the valve stem before you remove cap.
The valve stem caps should be metal with an inner rubber gasket. A good cap will provide a seal even when the valve doesn't. Plastic caps may not provide a good seal at higher inflation pressures used on RV tires. Check all of your tires and adjust the pressure according to the manufacturer's recommendation. Never set the inflation pressures below the recommendations you find on the vehicle manufacturers placard and do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure ratings found on the tires sidewall. Over inflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by sudden impact if they hit an obstacle, like a pothole, at high speeds.Never check inflation pressure when the tires are hot.
You'll get a higher-pressure reading and if you let some air out they'll be under inflated when they are cold. If you have dual wheels you'll want to add extension hoses to the valve stems to make the job of checking tire inflation easier.
It can be nearly impossible to check the inner dual without extension hoses. The best extension hoses will have stainless steel reinforcement and external braiding for long trouble-free life. Make sure the ends of the hoses are securely attached to the wheels. If you add extension hoses you need to replace the rubber valve stems with all steel valve stems. The added weight of the extension hoses can cause rubber stems to leak air resulting in under inflation.Ozone in the air and UV rays from the sun shorten the life of your tires. It's not uncommon to see RV tires with low mileage and plenty of tread that are ruined by the damaging effects of ozone and UV rays. Ozone in the air causes tires to dry rot and deteriorate.
UV rays from the sun make it happen quicker. This is especially true of the tires sidewall. Inspect your tires for checking or cracks in the sidewalls.
If you notice any damage have the tires inspected by a professional. There are basically two ways to protect your tires from these elements.
Keep the tires covered with covers that will block out the sunlight when not in use. For long-term storage remove the tires and store them in a cool dry place away from the sunlight, and away from grease, oil, and fuel. I also recommend that you place something like a piece of wood between the ground and the tires. Be sure that whatever you use is larger then the footprint of the tire. No portion of the tire should hang over the edge of the tire block. This can cause internal damage to the tire.The age of your tires is another factor that contributes to tire failure.
I learned this lesson the hard way. I bought an early model Jeep CJ7 to tow behind our motor home. After completely restoring it we were ready to try it out. The tires on the Jeep looked new. There were no visible signs of damage from the sun and the tread looked as though they were used very little. We towed the Jeep from North Carolina to Florida and from there to Colorado and back to North Carolina with no problems.
Shortly after that we towed it to Pennsylvania. Two hundred miles into the trip a front tire blew out, damaging the inner fender, shock absorber and an area below the door. I replaced the tire with the spare and within another 100 miles the spare blew out resulting in more damage.
After getting a new tire and going back to pick the Jeep up along side the Interstate we took it to a tire store to have the remainder of the tires replaced. The technician came in and explained that the tires were nine years old and even though they looked to be in good shape they could not handle the stress put on them. He also explained that all tires manufactured in the United States have a DOT number. The DOT number on my tires was on the inside sidewalls.
The last three or four digits in the DOT number identify how old the tire is. Older tires used three digits. The first two identify the week of the year that the tire was built and the third identifies the year. Newer tires use four digits. Again the first two digits are the week of the year and the last two identify the year.
For example 3204 is the 32 nd week of the year and 04 is the year 2004. If you question the age of your tires, especially on a used RV, and you can't find the DOT number have them inspected by a qualified tire center.Have you ever owned a vehicle and neglected to have the tires rotated and one day you suddenly notice that the front tires are wore out but the rear tires look fine? I'm sure that this has happened to most of us until we learned the valuable and expensive lesson of not rotating our tires. If one tire shows signs of wear faster than another tire it may be a signal that something other than normal tire wear is happening and you should have it checked. But if it's just normal tire wear you can even out the wear and extend the life of your tires by having the tires rotated on a regular basis.
Talk to your tire dealer about proper tire rotation intervals.Occasionally washing your tires with soap and water is OK, but anything beyond that can actually shorten the life of your tires. Sidewall rubber contains antioxidants and anti-ozones that are designed to work their way to the surface of the rubber to protect it. Washing tires excessively removes these protective compounds and can age tire prematurely. The same is true of most tire dressing designed to make your tires shine.Always keep in mind that weighing your RV is a snapshot in time. Weights can and do change according to how you load and distribute the weight in your RV and on many other factors. You should get in the practice of weighing your RV periodically to stay within all weight ratings, and remember, whenever an overload condition exists resolve the problem before using your RV.Tire failure can be extremely dangerous and can cause extensive damage to your RV. There are no guarantees, but by practicing good tire maintenance and weighing your RV you can feel much safer and secure that the weakest link on your RV will do its job while you're out exploring this wonderful country we live in.Happy Camping,Mark J.
PolkCopyright by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books.Sign up for your free 'RV Education 101' Newsletter16 RV Single DVD Titles in our LibraryMoney Saving DVD Sets Available14 RV Instant Download E-Book Titles in our Library.